Re: New To The Screening World, A Little Help Please
It is pretty hard to tell the manufacturer from a photo - but I agree it was not homemade. There is lots of valuable information on this site from my good friend George Baker that will help you along the way.
https://forum.bulk-online.com/showth...-Screen-Design
https://forum.bulk-online.com/showth...en-RPM-BASIC-s
to show you a couple of them. Use the search up in the top right hand corner of every page. ■
Gary Blenkhorn
President - Bulk Handlng Technology Inc.
Email: garyblenkhorn@gmail.com
Linkedin Profile: http://www.linkedin.com/in/gary-blenkhorn-6286954b
Offering Conveyor Design Services, Conveyor Transfer Design Services and SolidWorks Design Services for equipment layouts.
Re: New To The Screening World, A Little Help Please
Thanks for the info Gary, Ive been going through it. Ive since gotten the shaker working and put some material through it, it works great, but i'm also developed/ noticing some problems. On the Engine side of the shaker, someone welded an extension plate, im assuming to prevent material from bouncing off the deck and hitting the engine. Its starting to break the homegrown welds and the plate is starting to rattle badly. I'm going to remove it completely. Just from looking at the design and theory that goes into these machines, wouldn't you want the actual shaker box somewhat balanced, instead of adding weight on only one side?
For now, im slowly and carefully feeding soil onto the deck itself with my loader, and i do have some small rocks bounce off sometimes. Would it be possible to build the outside edge taller by adding say a 2x6 or 2x8 around the outside edge, on both sides to keep it balanced? there's a piece of c channel on top i could easily bolt the boards too. Just a thought, thanks for the help.
Also, i couldn't find any info on what type of oil is most commonly used inside the vibrator itself, i cant tell whats in this one by sight or smell.
Paul ■
Re: New To The Screening World, A Little Help Please
Yes you need to keep the sides balanced as much as possible.
Anytime you weld onto a screen side plate you are asking for trouble. Any new welds will induce cracking from the vibration. Should you experience a crack the proper repair procedure is to drill a hole 1/4" or less at both extreme ends of the crack to stop the crack from going any further then grind out material between the holes following the crack and weld the crack from hole to hole (DO NOT fill in the holes with weld).
I would bolt a piece of say 1/8" bent plate (something light and not higher than needed) onto both side channels but you would need to lock these bolts somehow in order for them to not work loose from the vibration. If you are familiar with Huck bolting it is the best way to go. The only way to remove a Huck bolt is to cut it off. But they require a special tool to install. http://huckfastening.com/
As far as oil requirements for the bearings an ISO 150 or 220 EP grade are commonly used. The oil level is typically determined to be half way up the lowest roller in the bearing. Too much oil is almost as bad as lack of oil. Be 100% sure they are oiled bearings and not greased bearings. ■
Gary Blenkhorn
President - Bulk Handlng Technology Inc.
Email: garyblenkhorn@gmail.com
Linkedin Profile: http://www.linkedin.com/in/gary-blenkhorn-6286954b
Offering Conveyor Design Services, Conveyor Transfer Design Services and SolidWorks Design Services for equipment layouts.
Screen Natural Frequency
Dear Paul,
If you add or remove parts from vibrating equipment, you will change their natural frequency.
If screen body natural frequency coincide with working frequency, the screen will not work.
In this case the motor running but the screen doesn't have smooth vibration.
first step:
use a pen or stroke stamps(discussed in other threads) and check movement of all four corners of screen, it should be like circle or ellipse. ■
Vibrating Screen Tips
Dear Sir: Some answers to your questions:
1. thanks for the pic........yup...that machine is very old for sure.
2. Vibrating screens should be "balanced" and vibrating as close to one piece as possible.
3. The extended vibrating EXTENDED DISCHARGE LIP....should just be taken off completely. Will smooth the machine out when vibrating. a SIX INCH lip is more standard.
4. It is common for users to JUST add a foot or so here to get the material somewhere...but, it throws the whole factory balance OFF.
5. The large ADDER sideplate extension on ONE SIDE ONLY...aint good or desired. should be removed ...so both sides look the same and BALANCED.
6. KEEP the moving or vibrating parts at least 2" away from any stationary frame parts. So when it shuts down and becomes erratic, it will not HIT the stationary parts and crack the body
7. it is important: to be level on coils spring mounts all around.
8. It is important: to be level on the FRAME as it sits on the ground, level side to side, hopefully firmly sitting on blocks on the ground. to avoid transmission of vibration into the body.
9. RPM on the SCREEN BOX: well a couple of factors must be considered first.
10. What openings in the wirecloth are you running? What square opening on top between the wires and what opening on the second deck. measure & advise.
11..Once I know that or anybody: we can recommend proper RPM to run the box (not the HONDA gas engine). You need to TACH the actual speed of the box, which relates to the OD of the drive sheave located on the end of the vibrating shaft. Is the sheave: deep groove type or normal. vibrating screens need DEEP V.
12. Need deep V sheave: so Mr belt does not try to escape and JUMP OUT of the groove, especially on shutdown, when IT is most erratic.
13. Need deep V profile rubber belt to fit that sheave. NOt expensive, just proper.
14. so...if you were screening at say: 2" over 1": the speed would or should be 840-860rpm and the circle STROKE should measure at 3/8" when measured edge to edge.
15. that setup is typical: and ensures the wirecloth will stay clear hopefully.
16. VERY CRITICAL to ensure we do not run MR HONDA gas engines...TOO FAST...this combined with the eccentric stroke, mathematically = operating G's
17. that type of setup: will run at about 3.5 to 3.8 G's which does 2 things. One hopefully screens that size of opg nicely and does not exceed the design speed of the machine by running over 4 G's with that STROKE and crack the sideplate out of the machine.
18. so....SPEED/STROKE/SLOPE are very important.
19. put a protractor on top edge of screen...determine the angle of decline. confirm that...let me know.
20. type of wirecloth will vastly increase your screening efficiency, and tons per hour rate with some review and discussion.
21. OIL: if oil, we fill til we about 1/2 way up the lowest bearing and I assume you are flow thru oil here, splashing side to side. EP oil (extreme pressure for vibrantting screen duty)
22. if GREASE: EP2. EP is the important part here AS per note above. if MP ...like in MolyPurpose, will break down and you will need to change bearings.
23. the 2 above indicates like summer ambient temps....when colder weather comes, change oil to lighter grade oil. Mobil oil and similar are good to go here.
24. Extreme heat or cold variations: go to synthetic oils to cover the RANGE
25. MFR or BRAND? ....I have no clue....maybe a Hewitt Robbins... 2 bearings circle throw incline screen (proper nonmenclature) to describe that rig.
26. The Honda drive is NOT typical...better to run an electrical cable to screen and have the gas power on the ground away from the screen SHEAVE area completely, easily done.
Wishing you GOOD VIBRATIONS & happy screening.
George Baker
TELSMITH Canada
519-242-6664
gbaker@telsmith.com
If you add or remove parts from vibrating equipment, you will change their natural frequency.
If screen body natural frequency coincide with working frequency, the screen will not work.
In this case the motor running but the screen doesn't have smooth vibration.
first step:
use a pen or stroke stamps(discussed in other threads) and check movement of all four corners of screen, it should be like circle or ellipse.[/QUOTE] ■
New to the screening world, a little help please
Hello, I recently picked up an older vibratory screener for cheap, to use around my property and could use some help. The fellow i got it from said it was a homemade piece. While pieces of it do like homegrown, i doubt the whole thing is. Ive go online and looked at hundreds of different machines trying to find something similar, but i haven't been able to find one. Can anyone identify it? i would like to see how it was setup when it was original. I got it in pieces and had to repair and reassemble parts of it. It came with an 11 horsepower briggs engine, that i mounted up and tried, but it ran terrible. I eventually traded for the honda engine off of another machine i had. I was able to find a good belt to use and run the screen. It works well for the test as i have not loaded it and run any material yet. A couple of questions i have are, What would be an approximate rpm to run this plant at? The engine spins 3600 rpm at full throttle and the screener seems happy there, vibrating along, just curious if thats too fast. Also, what kind of oil usually goes in the vibrator itself? i noticed a fill plug and a breather on both sides of it behind the shaker weights. Since these pics were taken, ive also mounted the engine bracket with some springs to dampen its movement as it follows the shaker around. Thanks for any help.
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