Wr Stamler Belt Feeder Breaker
Welcome to the forum,
I spent a huge amount of my time underground crawling around and in a BF-33 if I remember the model correctly.
The feeder chain is very hard for a reason to reduce wear-its a tsubaki brand chain if I remember right.
The torch is the fastest way to disassemble the chain links.
Are you releasing the pressure on the grease take up cylinders and slackening the chain to install and remove the links?
Is your Belt Feeder breaker set up with the steel shims to maintain the flight chain tension after the grease cylinder pressure is released?
I can tell you honestly you should be using fluid film lubricant to lube the chains when breaking and assembling them.
as far as lubing them I have dealt with the lincolns and they are ok but the problem is contamination at the reservoir and the lack of cleanliness in general and unexposed broken grease hoses to the tail shafts.
The tail shaft flap and the grease hose that is set in the center of the flap was-is a blessing.
please use my PM box to chat more if you like ■
Re: Stamler Ug Coal Feeder/Breaker Question
Originally Posted by kfcoltn
1. Does anyone have a tool to assist in removal and assembly of the conveyor chain master links? We have been cutting the old links off and buffing out the bores of new links to install. This is very time consuming and wasteful. I thought there may be some type of a press tool someone had found for this purpose.
2. What type of auto-lube systems have you had success with for these machines?
You have the Tsubaki chain with the keeper pins. They are very tight and ment to be that way to avoid spitting flights, which is a very nasty thing to have happen if the bottom of the belt feeder is intact and unexposed- lots of bad roof bolts welded end to end with a hook bent at the end to retrieve them from the tail shaft end :^)
Are you using the flights with the single square pin or the fliight type with the twin pin hole mounts at each end of the flights which are inserted into the extended length connecting pins?
Is your breaker all hydraulic drive with staffa motors for the flight chain at the head shaft and tail shaft? Are you using the the four tooth sprocket or the eight tooth for the chain drives?
When they switched to the flights using the twin pin collars to attach them to the flight chain it was an improvement in chain life and reduced problems but it all comes down to maintenance.
It will not hurt you any to spray a bit of hydraulic oil on the chains while the feeder breaker is running empty.
heres a link for fluid film.
www.fluidfilm.com
Its a wool wax derivitive and the stuff works! ■
Re: Stamler Ug Coal Feeder/Breaker Question
Izaharis,
We have the fliight type with the twin pin hole mounts at each end.
Our breaker has the Falk gearbox drive, not hydraulic drive.
Also for auto-lube, I was referring to a chassis & bearing grease system rather than chain lube. We have tried a lincoln rockhammer hydraulic actuated lube system, but don't belive it functions correctly for this application. I thought I saw in an older post, you mentioned a shaft driven auto-lube system, if so what brand/model was it?
I hear you about the tailshaft bearing grease hoses being hidden and susceptible to damage.
As far as a chain press tool, we were hoping someone had found a better way to assemble chain links besides our method of heating and beating to assemble.
Also we are looking at a bearing maintenance strategy for the headshaft and tailshaft bearings to avoid breakdown failures during the mining shift. Our thoughts are;
Tailshaft bearings - difficult to access to monitor condition so replace every 3 years on a schedule, they seem to fail by 4 years.
Headshaft bearings - measure temperature quarterly with a heat gun to give 2 weeks leadtime to plan the replacement.
Your thoughts on condition monitoring?? ■
Coal Etc.
Originally Posted by kfcoltnWe have the fliight type with the twin pin hole mounts at each end.
the newer units we commisioned had them too
Our breaker has the Falk gearbox drive, not hydraulic drive.
Our biggest problem was keeping it clean as the oil and grease just stunk from degradation and heat.
Also for auto-lube, I was referring to a chassis & bearing grease system rather than chain lube. We have tried a lincoln rockhammer hydraulic actuated lube system, but don't belive it functions correctly for this application. I thought I saw in an older post, you mentioned a shaft driven auto-lube system, if so what brand/model was it?
The ones I am familiar with is one of the lincoln models using a offset Cam disc bolted to the flight chain head shaft on the left side- they are ok BUUUUT
as they are not in a cabinet(and they should be The grease always gets dirty and most lubers will not carry a rag or a hand full of handcleaner to cover the manifold or clean the fittings with.
The low voltage lincolns used on the wagner scoops are ok too but have the same issues of cleanliness or lack there of.
I hear you about the tailshaft bearing grease hoses being hidden and susceptible to damage.
As far as a chain press tool, we were hoping someone had found a better way to assemble chain links besides our method of heating and beating to assemble.
Nope no way to void that with the Tsubaki hardox chain unfortuntely.
Buy some fluid film from a john deere dealer or contact fluid film directly and tell Dan at Fluid Film I sent you and tell him I said to send you two sample cans for you to use for hardened chains to install and break them
Also we are looking at a bearing maintenance strategy for the headshaft and tailshaft bearings to avoid breakdown failures during the mining shift. Our thoughts are;
As the head and tail shafts are set with a locked and passive bearing which floats on each end -
The best way handle it is to have a spare complete head shaft and tail shaft with bearings and mounting frames if you can afford to purchase complete spares for each unit and just be prepared as you know as well I do that they
destroy themselves in spectacular fashion if there is no one at the belt feeder breaker to oversee its behavior and stop it from spitting flights.
Tailshaft bearings - difficult to access to monitor condition so replace every 3 years on a schedule, they seem to fail by 4 years.
As you have one bearing which floats and the other is anchored and the bearings are a take up bearing type its an opportunity cost and decision tree issue replacing the bearings with double barrel rollers of that size if available-sorry its been a while.
having complete spares solves a lot of time issues and as they are a low speed bearing they die gradually or destroy themselves locking up entirely and breaking the tail shaft shaft too.
Are you set up with an end dumping unit with hopper walls?
The tail shaft housings are set up ok with the newer mountings but they issue of keeping them clean is always a problem- I finally kept after them to clean the entire breaker with a scoop to keep the crap down to a level where I could shovel the mess out and be able to look at the chains under the tailshaft as well as on the bed, I also made it a poin t to empty the entire breaker before I serviced it if the belt was empty and "they" were occupied with safety meetings so I could work unhindered.
With that time I was able to lock out the two power cables and inspect
The breaker roll for ROOF BOLTS-
always loved it when you told the SIC or the GF that roof bolts needed to be cut out as the bearings were overheating from the friction and being told it was not my problem to worry about as we had a qouta to meet.
When it got so bad the steel ended up in the crusher they finally did something because they had to - they finally bought a belt wide permanent magnet that
is mounted on a trolley across the 42 inch belt-did not solve the breaker roll issue but-
the guide shoes under the breaker roll to be sure the shoes were intact and not broken, the chain guide plates in the chute and the head shaft guides, the chain tension and whether the flights were square coming off the head shaft or not,
and time to check the 220 twin roller chain drive for the flight chain drive to be sure it was tight and not slapping the tail pulley cover.
The impovements that the Stamler folks made with the sled for the motor and gearbox sled to adjust the drive chain for the flight chain drive were well recieved by me as the sled always ended up being damaged by the scoops when they were cleaning or while the breaker was being moved due to a bed chain failure or tail pulley failure.
Their changing to shims for drive chain adjustment made the work a lot less aggravating but keeping everything clean was a problem because of the salt dust and the occasional spill overs from the times the belt feeder kept on running when the belt stopped. sparkies and timers or an idiot left the belt feeder flight chain drive on hand$%^&*().
Headshaft bearings - measure temperature quarterly with a heat gun to give 2 weeks leadtime to plan the replacement.
Your thoughts on condition monitoring??
same issues-colossal failures, or if you are lucky it tripped the circuit breaker
having complete spares being
head shafts with bearings- driven sprockets, complete mounting head shaft and chute weldments ready mount when the flight chain is cut-after the tension is released only after the flight chain is secured to avoid a runaway from gravity.
I never liked having to cut the chain at the crest of the hopper rather than breaking it at the bed to work on the head shaft as the flight chain motor and gearbox become victims of gravity and mass and there is less room to work
Its not uncommon to also break the head shaft at times too etc.
with the mounting steel for the chute is a blessing as the install and removal goes faster if the bolts are not damaged or the bolt threads are not dinged.
The thing I would have done with no hesitation was to change the bolt type to
hex head cap screws-fine thread grade eight allen head bolts as a matter of principle and nylock nuts and allen washers-
fewer tools needed and more room to work with a smaller tool
and sure they cost money but I would trust an allen socket head cap screw socket with fine threads over a hex head bolt that nay have a wornn head and could cause a spark if the wrench slipped and smacked the head shaft chutes mounting plates.
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Re: Stamler Ug Coal Feeder/Breaker Question
OK thanks.
Luckily ours are hydraulic conveyor drive, so dont have broken shafts or chains.
Good ideas. Talk to you later.
Tern ■
Stamler Feeded Conveyor Chain Tool
Found a Stamler conveyor chain tool. Wow it is expensive, over $10k.
see attachment.
Tern
Attachments
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Stamler Flight Chain
Originally Posted by kfcoltnsee attachment.
Tern
Hello Tern,
I beleive that units is also used to splice and break the continuos miner with the wide chains which travel in rotation with the drum on the drum miners, long wall bed chains, shuttle car chains etc.
They refused to buy one for our undercutters(five units) when we were using the 15 RU units with the fifteen foot bars- always loved the "when I nod my head hit it festivities with a pin driver and 15 pound sledge hammer splicing and breaking the cinncinatti chain with the cutter head upside down and the tilt cylinder leaking off because thay refused to reinstall the tilt cylinder needle valve to stop the bar sinking and high cuts but I was referred to as stupid etc.
The fluid film will be well worth the effort Tern and it will penetrate the hardox chain to break and mend the chains and as its bio degradable you should have no issues with the MSDS too.
leon ■
Stamler UG Coal Feeder/Breaker Question
We have a Model BF-14a-54-64c. I have a couple questions.
1. Does anyone have a tool to assist in removal and assembly of the conveyor chain master links? We have been cutting the old links off and buffing out the bores of new links to install. This is very time consuming and wasteful. I thought there may be some type of a press tool someone had found for this purpose.
2. What type of auto-lube systems have you had success with for these machines? ■